Add power wiring guide: LRS-350-12 -> J1000, AC-switch power design
Pinouts sourced from mothenjoyer69/bc250-documentation hardware.md. Power switch = fused+switched IEC inlet on the AC side, with AUTO_PWRON1 jumper 1-2 so the board boots when 12V appears. Co-Authored-By: Claude Fable 5 <noreply@anthropic.com>
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Claude Fable 5
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# BC-250 Console — Power Wiring Guide
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Wiring a **Mean Well LRS-350-12** (12 V / 29 A / 350 W) to the BC-250's
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**J1000** PCIe 8-pin power input, with an AC-side power switch.
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> ⚠️ **The AC side of this build is mains voltage. It can kill you.**
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> Work with the cord unplugged, never trust a switch to isolate, keep AC
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> terminals covered when done (the LRS-350 ships with a terminal cover —
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> use it), and if you are not comfortable with mains wiring, have someone
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> qualified do §2.
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## 1. Parts
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| Item | Notes |
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|---|---|
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| Mean Well LRS-350-12 | Screw-terminal PSU: `L`, `N`, `FG` (AC side) + 3× `+V`, 3× `−V` (DC side) |
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| PCIe 8-pin pigtail, 16 AWG | The **female receptacle** end mates with J1000. Must be **PCIe**, not EPS/CPU — the keying differs and EPS swaps 12 V/GND. Never force a connector. |
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| Fused + switched IEC C14 inlet module | The cleanest "power switch": cord socket, rocker, and fuse in one panel part. Rated ≥ 250 VAC / 6 A. Fit a **5 A slow-blow** fuse (PSU pulls ~4 A max at 115 V, half that at 230 V). |
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| Grounded (3-wire) IEC mains cord | Earth is not optional — the PSU chassis and `FG` must be earthed. |
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| Ring or fork crimp terminals + ferrules | For the PSU screw terminals. Bare stranded wire under screws loosens over time. |
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| Heat shrink, zip ties | Insulate every AC joint; strain-relieve everything. |
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| Multimeter | Non-negotiable for §4. |
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## 2. AC side (mains → PSU)
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```
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IEC inlet module LRS-350-12
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┌───────────────────┐
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│ L ──── FUSE ──── SWITCH ────────────────► L
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│ N ──────────────────────────────────────► N
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│ E (earth) ───────────────────────────┬──► FG (ground symbol)
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└───────────────────┘ └──► case earth stud (if separate)
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```
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- Fuse and switch go in the **Live** line only (a double-pole switch that
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also breaks N is even better; never switch only N).
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- Insulate the inlet's spade terminals with heat shrink or boots — they're
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live whenever the cord is plugged in, switch position irrelevant.
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- Earth goes straight through, unswitched and unfused, to `FG`.
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- Fit the PSU's plastic terminal cover after wiring.
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## 3. DC side (PSU → J1000)
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J1000 pinout (from the BC-250 hardware docs):
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```
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[ GND GND GND GND ] 3 × 12 V pins, 5 × GND pins
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[ GND 12V 12V 12V ]
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```
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- Run **each of the three 12 V wires to its own `+V` terminal** and the
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ground wires to the `−V` terminals (bundle grounds 2-per-terminal if the
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pigtail has five). The LRS-350 has three terminal pairs precisely so you
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can split high current — at the board's ~220 W TDP that's ~18 A total,
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~6 A per 16 AWG wire. Comfortable.
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- Keep the run short — under ~1 m limits voltage drop.
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- Ferrules or ring terminals on every wire; screw them down hard and tug-test.
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- Don't extend or thin the wires: 16 AWG minimum, as delivered.
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- No inline DC fuse needed — the LRS-350 has over-current, over-voltage,
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and short-circuit protection built in.
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## 4. Verification — BEFORE the board ever sees power
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With the **pigtail connected to the PSU but NOT to the board**:
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1. **Continuity (AC off, cord unplugged):** beep out each connector pin to
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its PSU terminal. Confirm the three pins on J1000's `12V` positions trace
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to `+V` and all others to `−V`. Match the pinout above against the actual
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connector — identify which row is which by following the wires, not by
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assuming latch orientation.
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2. **Voltage (AC on, board disconnected):** switch on. Measure across the
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connector's 12 V/GND pins: expect **12.0–12.2 V** (trim with the PSU's
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`+V ADJ` pot if needed). Then probe **every pin pair** — any 12 V on a
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pin that maps to GND means STOP and re-check.
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3. Switch off, plug into J1000 (it only seats one way — if it doesn't seat,
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it's the wrong connector, do not force), then proceed to §5.
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## 5. The power switch (how the console turns on and off)
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The BC-250 has no case power button — it was a rack blade. Instead:
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**`AUTO_PWRON1` jumper → pins 1-2** (factory default; also matches the BIOS
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`AUTO_PWRON` setting from the install checklist). The board now boots
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automatically the moment 12 V appears — so **the rocker on the IEC inlet *is*
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the console's power switch**, exactly like a TV:
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| Action | Result |
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|---|---|
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| Rocker ON | PSU powers up → board auto-boots → GNOME login |
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| Shut down from GNOME / `sudo systemctl poweroff` | Board off; PSU still energized (standby). Stays off until AC is cycled. |
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| Rocker OFF → ON | Full power cycle → boots fresh |
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| Rocker OFF | Everything dead. Fine to do after a soft shutdown; the OS is btrfs and the image is atomic, but teach the kid "menu shutdown first" anyway. |
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Notes:
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- Jumper position 2-3 instead makes the board wait for a power-button press —
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useless in a custom case (there's no accessible button; don't use this mode).
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- `J2001`'s `PGD` pin powers the board **off** when shorted to ground — that's
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a blade-chassis signal, not a power button. Leave J2000/J2001 unconnected.
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- Leave the console rocker-ON overnight sometimes: automatic OS/app updates
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install while it's powered.
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## 6. Fans (they also need 12 V)
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- `CPU_FAN1` is a standard 4-pin PWM header: `[ PWM Tach 12V GND ]` — BIOS
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fan curve applies. Put the primary heatsink fan here.
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- More fans: a PWM splitter on `CPU_FAN1` (fine for 2–3 standard fans), or
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run extras directly off a spare `+V`/`−V` pair (they'll run full speed,
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always — crude but effective for case airflow).
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- Don't forget airflow over the **backplate** — the GDDR6 underneath runs
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hot and has no temperature sensor.
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## 7. First power-on
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1. J1000 seated, fans connected, DisplayPort to TV, keyboard for BIOS.
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2. Rocker ON. Expect: fans spin, DisplayPort shows POST within ~30 s.
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3. No signs of life in 30 s → rocker OFF, re-do §4. Do not keep retrying.
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4. First stop: BIOS — confirm the firmware/VRAM settings from the install
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checklist, then boot the installer USB.
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